Fashion 20 a m'nthawi ya 20: zovala, amakonzera tsitsi, mafuta odzola zodzikongoletsera

1920 lotchedwa "wobuma makumi", "wobuma makumi", "openga makumi", "Golden makumi". Izi ndi nyengo ya jazi ndi luso deco heyday wailesi ndi mafilimu a kanema, kuvina ndi chipwirikiti cha moyo usiku. nthawi iyi, anapulumuka dziko yowononga nkhondo, ndi nthawi ya kusintha kwakukulu ndi patsogolo.

Kodi n'chiyani chinamuchititsa mafashoni?

Mu zaka 20 kwambiri wasintha udindo akazi. Ngati kale, ngakhale feminists anazindikira kuti kugonana chilungamo ndi kusankha pakati pa ntchito ndi banja mfundo tsopano madona ankafuna kuphatikiza onse. A mbadwo watsopano wa akazi emancipated otchedwa flepper. Mosiyana ndi amayi awo ndi grandmothers amene anakulira ndi mfundo za zamunthawi ya Victoria flepper zinthu nkhawa ufulu: zovala zawo ayamba kudzindikira thupi, iwo kwambiri penti ndi kumvetsera jazi, iwo anayendetsa galimoto ndi kumanga ntchito, kusuta ndi kuvina.

Kuwonjezera Kumasuka, ndi dziko wamkazi kwambiri ndi First World nkhondo. Pamene anthu anapita kutsogolo, ndi akazi amene ali kuima pa makina m'mafakitale, ndi kukumba ngalande, kusamalira ovulala, kuzimitsa moto ndi kuchita enforcers. Zonsezi zikugwirizananso ndi chikhalidwe akazi ndipo monga Motero, pa kachitidwe wa wobuma makumi.

M'dziko mbiri mafashoni nthawi imeneyi anali kwenikweni unasinthiratu. Chingasinthe kotero kopambana kuti anali mu 1920, mukhoza lembani mzere pakati pa mafashoni kwa zaka za m'ma 19, zikuchitika amene anamva ngakhale kuti nkhondo, ndi mawonekedwe a zana la 20. Corsets ndi masiketi aatali satsatira zofunika wamakono wa chitonthozo ndi magwiridwe, mbisoweka amakonzera tsitsi amange ndi zipewa zotambalala, madiresi odulidwa amakhala fasteners mosavuta kusuntha kuchokera kumbuyo kwa chifuwa, onse wamba nzeru "mphezi", mawonekedwe ndi unisex kalembedwe.

kavalidwe

Fashion 20 a m'nthawi ya 20 malinga ndi abwino latsopano maonekedwe chosalimba. Dona emansipe ayenera kukhala wochepa kwambiri, ndi yopapatiza m'chiuno boyish ndi featureless pachifuwa. Zinafika mpaka akazi kwambiri zazikulu kugwira perebintovyvali zolimba. Androgynous chithunzi anathandiza kuti pakhale masewera amene wakhala otchuka pakati flepper. Ndipo pofuna kutsindika kuchepa thupi pafupifupi boyish ndi angularity ankatchedwa molunjika silhouette kavalidwe. m'chiuno mzere pa zovala amenewa anali understated kwambiri, koma anafuna siketi iye. Ngati pachiyambi cha 20s zinali kutalika yapamwamba ndi akakolo, pakati pa nyengo kavalidwe anakwera kwa bondo, ndipo ngakhale pang'ono apamwamba, kachiwiri kugwera pansi pa mapeto a zaka khumi ndi. Long manja kutha ndi kupereka njira kwa zomangira za thupi kwambiri poyera: a woyimba limapezeka pa odulidwa-kumbuyo.

Dziko unawonongedwa anakumbatira otchedwa dansingomaniya. Kutchuka kwa kuvina kuchuluka zikuchepa, anali ambiri ankakonda foxtrot, tango ndi American Waltz, maganizo ndi kufalitsa Charleston, Lindy siimakupiza ndi kugwedezeka. Chotengeka dansingomanii anasintha 20s mafashoni. Madiresi, amene ayenera kukhala zovuta kuvina usiku kutali, kupeza wamfupi, unakhala wotchuka chonyezimira nsalu, zouluka ndi "michira" mphonje ndi mkanda nsalu, nthenga ndi ubweya pa miyendo - nsapato bwalo ndi zidendene. Neckline pa gawo kumbuyo ukufika m'chiuno madona, m'chiuno yopapatiza chokongoletsedwa ndi mauta ndi pafupifupi lathyathyathya chifuwa - Mipikisano magawo mkanda ngale.

outerwear

20s anali nthawi ya kuyesera, luso ndi malingaliro wonyanyuka. Mothandizidwa mumaganiza latsopano zasintha ndi outerwear. Ngati m'zaka za m'ma 20, si zosiyanasiyana zosiyanasiyana masitaelo, nkhondo itatha, zinthu zimasintha kwambiri: asilikali amene anamenya kunja, kunyumba kwambiri maganizo atsopano. Masitayilo mayiko ena anakankhira okonza European ndi American mafashoni kulenga zopereka, kumene zikhalidwe zosiyanasiyana zapiringizana ndipo inasanduka chinachake Ndithudi latsopano. Mwachitsanzo, zaka zimenezo pa olankhulira anapita Cape - odula popanda manja, wodziwika mu nthawi yathu.

Koma Njira yotchuka kwambiri ya zovala panja kunamveka ponseponse ngalande ( "ngalande odula"), analengedwa ndi England Thomas Bredberri. odula ili la madzi gabardine wakhala anakonzedwa asilikali zinatchuka mu First World nkhondo ndi bwinobwino amagonjetsa ndi olankhulira lero. Latsopano malaya analanda maganizo a fashionistas wobangula makumi. Makamaka kwa amayi Bredberri anayamba kupanga ndi zitsanzo zina wachisomo ndi kuwala kwa minofu zofewa. Ngalande odula wangwiro machesi mafashoni kwa unisex, akwaniritsa zofunikira latsopano la mayiko ndi chitonthozo.

Buluku

Akazi 20 ntchentche mwachangu katswiri dera wamwamuna wa ntchito: iwo kukhala pa helm la ndegeyo, pa galimoto komanso kusewera masewera. Kumene, mafashoni 20 a m'nthawi ya 20, anasonyeza kusintha onse: emansipe avale coveralls ndi zamphepo ndege, amuna kuvala tuxedos ndi breeches. Koma ambiri, mwina, luso chosintha kukhala akazi mathalauza. Pamene iwo sakanakhoza adzawathamangitsa kavalidwe molunjika silhouette, koma mathalauza ogonera amene anadza kwa Europe ku India, akhala zovala yapamwamba kwa maulendo ndi gombe. Patapita kanthawi, pamene French wojambula-mlengi Zhanna Lanven anayamba kulenga posintha zobvala za usiku kaso nsalu loyenda, chokongoletsedwa ndi zingwe, nsalu ndi akazi mphonje analoŵa mu chovala ngati m'misewu. Tikhoza kunena kuti posintha zobvala za usiku anakhala zinachitika kwa woyamba suti trouser, amene adzalowa mafashoni ina.

nsapato

Kuwonjezera pa zazifupi a ovina jazi dansingomaniya anapereka wobuma makumi kaso bwalo nsapato ndi zidendene, molemera chokongoletsedwa ndi diamondi, zomangira ndi buckles. Yapadera imeneyi-buckles nsapato anali Ngati a Bakha. Court nsapato ofunika mtengo ndithu, kotero kutetezela msewu dothi madona kuvala nsapato zapadera labala, chinachake chonga galoshes ndi indentation pang'ono pa chidendene lonse.

Wina anamenyedwa pa nyengo - nsapato mkulu, wotchedwa Russian. mafashoni kufalitsa anathandiza alendo ambiri ochokera Russia amene anathawira kunja pambuyo zisinthe. Tachita ndipo mofulumira zowononga madiresi akazi. Kwa nthawi yoyamba, "nsapato Russian" anasonyeza Parisian mafashoni mlengi Pol Puare mu 1913, motsogozedwa ndi ulendo wake ku St. Petersburg ndi Moscow.

zipewa

Kuvomerezedwa khalidwe la zovala yapamwamba mu 20s amakhalabe ndi zipewa, ndicho chabe iwo amaoneka mosiyana kwambiri. Anayamba kuchepa frilly lonse munda, bonnets aiwala ndi zotulutsira. Pa nsonga ya kutchuka - chipewa-Cloche woboola pakati belo. maonekedwe ake Cloche udindo French milliner Caroline Reba, "mfumukazi" chipewa mafashoni. Chotero headwear sewn Nthawi zambiri mwake, veleveti kapena bafuta, horsehair, anamva kapena udzu. Cloche zipewa-analola kubisa tsitsi, anali omasuka ndi othandiza. Pambali nthawi ya jazi madona anasankha berets ndi ana akazi a ziyoni. zipewa madzulo intricately chokongoletsedwa ndi stitches kukongoletsa, bafuta n'kulembekalembeka, maluwa ndi rhinestones, nthenga ndi zokometsera zomanga.

Pambuyo kusamuka ku Russia ku Ulaya ndi United States mu dziko mwadzidzidzi Kasupe mu kachitidwe Western miyambo Russian mipango - kokoshnik. Tikhoza kunena tikambirana zinthu wotchuka kwambiri wa zovala dziko mu nthawi ya pakati pa nkhondo dziko. Akazi Fashion 20, amapereka kuvala kokoshnik korona pa ukwati, ndipo makope momasuka kusintha malamulo akhale mbali ya kavalidwe tsiku ndi tsiku. Zhanna Lanven ngakhale anamasulidwa magulu otchedwa zipewa Russian, ndi mafashoni nyumba anagulitsa pulasitiki kokoshniki.

Chalk

Okonza 20s kulenga zovala osankhidwa bafuta, veleveti ndi silika. Anapeza weniweni amakhala yunifomu: m'zaka 19 chifukwa ankasoka zovala zamkati monga kumveka ndi zovala anthu kuchokera makalasi m'munsi, mu makumi wobangula, iye anavula pa pedestal wake. Ubweya unasiya kukhala mbali ya outerwear: madona-kuvala flepper Pestsovoye kapena zikopa sable pa mapewa umboni, complementing awo kavalidwe madzulo. An chowonjezera singasiyanitsidwe amakhala nthawi yaitali ndudu chofukizira ndudu mlandu ndi artsy.

Fashion 20 a m'nthawi ya 20 anasangalala chongosangalatsa wa zovala, koma chifukwa cha mathero awo makamaka wolemera. Zovala chokongoletsedwa ndi mikanda mphonje ndi nsalu. Amazipanga wotchuka ali wowerengeka amajambulapo maluwa okongola: akazi kusankha Chinese nsalu ziwembu Persian. Kupezeka mu 1922 m'manda a Tutankhamun mu English katswiriyo Howard Carter zinachititsa kuti Egyptomania amene wokhawokha lonse azungu. zimbudzi afika kulamulira mafashoni zosiyana mitundu khalidwe la chitukuko cha Aigupto, mitundu zojambula za luso lakalekale, zilembo ndi zithunzi za makolo, matumba beaded ndi nthenga boa.

Kumene, kutchuka kwa zosowa bwanji luso zodzikongoletsera, ndi zodzikongoletsera mafashoni m'gulu. Mwina chokongoletsera mkulu wa akazi 20s ndi mikanda ngale. Iwo momuzungulira khosi kangapo, ndi gawo kunsi kwa iwo akhoza kufika m'chiuno. Nthawi zina kusankha rhinestone m'malo ngale. Kuwonjezera mikanda, madona ankavala chachikulu tsitsi tatifupi ndi zokometsera zomanga, yotakata zibangili mitundu ndi chachikulu zojambula ndolo. Mafashoni ndi korona, kumunyamula chifukwa madzulo avale. The zitsulo wotchuka kwambiri ndi pulatinamu ndi golide woyera, ndipo nthawi imeneyi ku luso zodzikongoletsera amatchedwa "woyera".

Chifukwa cha mafashoni kwa lalifupi madiresi kufunika yaikulu woonda silika masitonkeni ndi lamba, amene Komabe, si onse amene angakwanitse, m'malo iwo amagula kupanga. A kalembedwe watsopano zovala acimuuza zovala zatsopano: akazi 1920s anasankha osakaniza lalifupi, molunjika, zolimba pamwamba, nditagwira pamtima, thalauza silika ndi petticoats yopapatiza.

Tsitsi ndi zodzoladzola

Fashion amakonzera tsitsi 20 anauza kusiya tsitsi lalitali mu mtima wamfupi, haircuts pafupifupi boyish. Flepper, amakonda kusankha woperekera zakudya - hairstyle "pansi pa mnyamata" wa tsitsi lalifupi. Kuyenera otchuka pambuyo amasulidwe buku ndi French wolemba Victor Margherita La Garçonne ( «bachelorette") mu 1922. Garzon ankavala onse ndi phwaa, kapena popanda, chotuluka tsitsi kwa khutu ndipo anali ndi maonekedwe osiyana. Iyo inali yabwino yosavuta hairstyle kuti amalola akazi kamodzinso kusonyeza kulingana ndi amuna.

Koma osati yochepa anapambana mitima ya fashionistas jazi nyengo. Fashion zaka 20-30 amapereka lalifupi wavy tsitsi ndi mitolo ndi bwino zigwiritsidwe amene mumayenda kudulidwa. Chinthu chofunika wa kuvala ndi: iwo anapangidwa nsalu yapamwamba, molemera adakonzeka ndi ngale ndi zingwe, anasankhidwa kuti onsewa ndi zovala. Izi unali wolunjika bandeji pamphumi ndi ankaona chizindikiro cha mwanaalirenji. Akazi emansipe ndi ankavala hairnets: popanda ntchito mwangwiro kukongoletsa, zikugwirizana ndi tsitsi, chimene chinali chofunika kwambiri makamaka pa madzulo chikondwerero ndi kuvina chimphepo.

Bright kudzipangitsa ndi kuvomerezedwa iliyonse fashionista wobangula makumi. Wosakhwima wotumbululuka mtundu kusintha zamasiku cinematic zodzoladzola. Mkazi akupereka milomo mu wowala mtundu ofiira kapena vinyo, modabwitsa kupenta "uta", mowolowa manja ntchito ufa ndi Rouge, anasonyeza Arc zonyalazo nsidze. chidwi umalakalaka maso mmaonekedwe anali mdima mithunzi ndi wandiweyani wakuda eyeliner ndi wabodza nsidze, chokongoletsedwa ndi mikanda ndi sequins madzulo mu kuwala. A njira yatsopano kusuta osaletsedwa chofunika kuganizira manja, kotero mu 1920s kuoneka akuda msomali osalala.

mafashoni anthu

Mu 1920 anayambitsa "youma" lamulo United States, mowa ndikoletsedwa popanga, kugulitsa ndi kunyeketsa m'dziko lonselo. Izo zimayenera kuchepetsa kukula kwa upandu, kuthetsa mavuto komanso kulimbikitsa thanzi la America, koma onse sizinayende: mu United States zikukangalika osauka chivundi ndi kuzembetsa. Mamembala a gulu la zigawenga anakhala achifwamba amadziwika. American Fashion zaka 20-30 kugwa pansi kuzikhulupirira: amuna, kutengera kalembedwe mutu wa dziko chigawenga Al Kapone, kuvala mdima masuti awiri breasted mu pinstripe chitsanzo kapena "herringbone", nsapato awiri kamvekedwe ndipo ankaona zipewa, suspenders ndi maulalo khafu, mphete ndi kuwonerera

Amuna fashoni zaka 20 ndipo popularize kalembedwe zachikhalidwe. amuna ndiwofatsa a suti jekete ankaganiza ndi m'chiuno mkulu ndi mapewa chopapatiza; ichi kudula zowoneka anatambasula okoma. Jazz Boom chinathandiza kufala kwa dzina chomwecho suti ndi thalauza yopapatiza ndi jekete lokwanira. China chochitika amene anatuluka mu Oxford - lonse flannel thalauza. Iwo anayamba kuvala kubisa masokosi othamanga amene amagwa pansi lamulo okhwima. Tailcoat pang'onopang'ono zikuzimiririka pang'onopang'ono zinthu zakale, m'malo mwake pakubwera Tuxedo adzafupikitsidwa.

Russian mafashoni

Osati kokha West nakhudza chosintha chatsopano mafashoni zaka 20. Russia - kapena kani, kale Soviet Union - anali kuyesera ndi mumaganiza lonse kuti osasankhidwa mu dziko, pamene panalibe "chitsulo nsaru". Panthawi imeneyi, chinatseguka woyamba ku Soviet Union "Msonkhano wa zovala chi." Russian ndi Soviet mafashoni mlengi Nadezhda Lamanova anapatsidwa kulenga ntchito wamba mafashoni, koma anapereka wotchipa coarse nsalu. Patatha analenga "Couture" ali nazo tonyamulira ake, veleveti, silika, analandidwa ku m'bado wa kwawo.

NEP ku Soviet Union m'malo owonongedwa ndi umphawi anasangalala avant-garde maganizo ndi zolinga constructivist mu mlengalenga. Women wa USSR, monga West amenenso adalipo boyish chithunzi madiresi lotayirira, zipewa ndi zodzikongoletsera. Iwo ankavala Buluku mwachangu kusuta ankayendetsa galimoto ndi kuchita masewera. Tsitsi Soviet fashionista chachifupi kwambiri kusengedwa, koma mosiyana ndi akazi American ndi European ankakonda osati azipiringa. Avant wakhala anayambitsa yapamwamba zojambula chokongoletsera kuvala zovala zachikazi. Constructivists zovala banja anathetsa zonse ankafuna minofu owonjezera - tucks, pleats ndi cuffs.

Mwina, m'zaka lomaliza sanali khumi limodzi pamene mafashoni anasintha kwambiri mu zaka zingapo. Fashion 20 a m'nthawi ya 20 - chodabwitsa malinga ndi kubadwa kwa mumaganiza zatsopano, mafashoni ndi zinthu zina.