Okonza zovala zapamwamba padziko lonse: malingaliro, zopindulitsa zabwino

Kugwiritsa ntchito mafakitale kunachititsa kuti zovala zikhale zazikulu komanso zotsika mtengo, ndipo pasanapite nthawi panali mafakitale apamwamba ovala zovala, omwe ndi apadera komanso apadera. Anthu otchuka kwambiri ovala zovala akhala mbali ya chikhalidwe, zolengedwa zawo zimakondweretsa anthu, zimakhala zolakalaka komanso zogwirizana.

Anthu opanga zovala zamakono komanso zamakono anayamba kupanga chilakolako cha anthu, kulamula malamulo a moyo, kutsogolera ntchito za ogulitsa. Kodi awa ambuye a chiwonongeko ndi ndani? Tiyeni tiyankhule za omwe opanga mafashoni otchuka a mdziko anali ovomerezeka ndi machitidwe osiyanasiyana nthawi zosiyanasiyana.

Coco Chanel

Makampani opanga mafashoni amayamba ndi Coco Chanel. Anasintha kwambiri lingaliro la zovala za amayi, komanso za njira ya moyo wamba. Mu 1909, yemwe kale anali wophunzira wa malo ogona, Gabrielle Chanel akuyamba malo ogulitsira masitolo kuti apange zipewa. Kenaka amayamba kupanga zovala. Anawona ntchito yake popanga zovala zabwino kwa amayi. Koko anamva kusintha kwa njira ya moyo wa anthu amasiku ano ndikufuna kupanga zovala zomwe amatha kumva bwino.

Mu 1913, iye anatsegula sitolo ku Deauville, kumene anayamba kupereka masewera. Pa Nkhondo Yoyamba Padziko Lonse iye amavala zovala za geya. Chanel nayenso anali wotsutsana kwambiri ndi corset ndipo adapatsa suti yomwe inalola akazi kuti azichita popanda kusunthika kumeneku. Anapatsa zovala zophweka, madiresi ake a lakoni anayamba kukhala achikale. Ndiponso, kwa nthawi yoyamba Koko mwiniwake anavala mathalauza pa moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku, osati kwa kukwera, monga kale. Kuchokera nthawi imeneyo, magulu ake sangathe kuchita popanda suti, komanso tiedwe ndi kuika awiri: jeketetiketi yeniketi yowoneka ndi mdima wakuda, mapepala ndi mabatani akuluakulu.

Pambuyo pa imfa ya Coco Chanel mu 1971, Fashion Fashion, yomwe adalengedwa ndi iye, adatha kukhala pakati pa anthu abwino kwambiri padziko lapansi. Ndipo lero akupitiriza kuteteza ndikukula miyambo ya Mlengi wamkulu, kupanga zovala zokongola komanso zoyengedwa.

Cristobal Balenciaga

Wopanga mafashoni wamkulu wa ku Spain anabadwa mu 1895, ali ndi zaka 24 amatsegula nyumba yake yoyamba ku Spain, panthawi ya nkhondo yapachiŵeniweni akupita ku Paris, kumene akuyamba ntchito yake yodalirika ngati malo ogulitsira.

Iye, mosiyana ndi zina zamakono za mafashoni, adachokera ku zofanana ndi wopanga mafashoni, akhoza kupanga ndi kusoka kavalidwe, osati kungojambula. Otsatira a nyumba ya Balenciaga anavekedwa anthu ndi nyenyezi: Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly, Duchess wa Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor. Iwo amamuyamikira chifukwa cha kukoma kwake kosasangalatsa ndi kachitidwe, iye adalenga zokongola, osati kuvala. Cristobal amadzimva kuti akhoza kupanga nsalu ndipo nthawi zonse amadziwa momwe angagwiritsire ntchito kukongola kwa chiwerengero cha akazi.

Balenciaga anali wovomerezeka woweruza, iye analamula malamulo a mafashoni, ndipo sanawamvere. M'zaka za m'ma 50, maestro amapereka makola opanda collar, ndi iye amene amagwiritsa ntchito mapewa oyamba.

M'zaka za m'ma 60, Cristobal akuwombera, akuwonetsa mapepala a kavalidwe omwe anali abwino kwambiri ndipo panthawi imodzimodziyo anabisala zolakwika za chiwerengerocho. Komanso m'mabuku ake abwino kwambiri, dziko lonse lapansi linawona chovala chogwiritsira ntchito, chovala chofewa chotchedwa "line one". Amayika manja a manja a malaya pamaso a mkazi, amapatsa madiresi a dollar omwe amachititsa kuti mafashoni a padziko lapansi akhale openga.

Kuwonjezera pa madiresi omwe amasinthika Balenciaga amavala zovala zowonongeka ndi jekete, amapatsa amayi zovala zabwino zocheka, komanso malaya amodzi. Cha kumapeto kwa zaka makumi asanu ndi awiri, mbuyeyo anazindikira kuti mafashoni amasiya kukhala apamwamba, kuti mphamvu ya mafashoni imachotsedwa ndi syndicate. Iye amakana zopereka zonse za kugulitsa kwa Fashion Fashion. Mu 1972, sitimayi siinayambe, kuyesayesa kwina kunayambanso kuyambitsanso chizindikiro, koma sizinapindule.

Christian Dior

Okonza zovala zapamwamba nthawi zambiri amachokera ku gawo losauka la anthu. Koma Christian Dior anakulira m'banja lolemera, adaphunzira luso labwino, adakhala wojambula. Banja linasokonezeka, ndipo anayenera kulingalira za kupeza chakudya chamoyo . Mu 1946, ali ndi zaka 41, amatsegulira nyumba yake yapamwamba ku Paris. Ndipo mu 1947, adatulutsanso kope loyamba lokonzekera New Look.

"Maonekedwe atsopano" Dior anali ndi lingaliro la mkazi ngati maluwa okongola. Wopanga mafashoniyo adatsutsana ndi zizoloŵezi zonse zamakono ndikubwezeretsanso zolinga zammbuyo. Zovala zake ndi chiuno chochepa ndi chovala chachikulu, chomwe chinatenga nsalu 40 mamita, chinachotsa kukwatulidwa kwa amayi, kutopa ndi kunyalanyaza usilikali, ndi kutsutsa mwamphamvu za anzawo. Choncho, Coco Chanel ndi Cristobal Balenciaga adanamizira Dior kuti adziwonetsere bwino komanso adziwonetsa zoipa. Zovuta zambiri zinayambitsa kukhazikitsidwa kwa mizere ya pret-a-porter. Koma Dior anapitiliza kupanga zokolola zamtengo wapatali, zomwe zinapindula nthawi zonse.

Kwa zaka 10, Christian Dior wakhala akupanga magulu ena 6, omwe anali osiyana kwambiri ndi chiuno ndipo anatsindika za chikazi. Mu 1957, Christian Dior anamwalira, koma nyumba yake ya mafashoni siinatayikire ulemerero mpaka lero.

Ambuye amasiku ano: Dolce ndi Gabbana

Okonzanso otchuka padziko lonse lakumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 1900 Dolce & Gabbana analowa mu mafashoni mu 1982. Zisanayambe, aliyense wa awiriwa adayendayenda mu mafashoni. Iwo anakumana mumsika waung'ono ku Milan. Mu 1985, Dolce ndi Gabbana akusonkhanitsa zojambula zawo "The Real Woman" ndikugonjetsa akazi ndi njira yawo yatsopano ya mafashoni. Nyumba yawo yosungiramo zinthu ndi mayi wamphamvu, wodzidalira, wokongola kwambiri omwe sali chitsanzo.

M'tsogolo, ojambula akugogomezera kuwonjezereka ndi kuunika kwa mafano, iwo amalumikiza molimba manja nsalu zosiyana, zokondeka kwambiri. Koma magulu awo onse amakumana ndi miyezo yabwino kwambiri yapamwamba. Chofunika kwambiri ndi mzere wa amuna, womwe umaphatikizapo kalembedwe kake ka Chiitaliya, chic, masculinity ndi eccentricity. Pakalipano, Dolce & Gabbana amapanga mizere isanu ndi iwiri ya zovala: kuchokera kuzinthu zapamwamba kupita ku ana ndi kumapiri. Iwo samasiya maudindo a utsogoleri monga otchuka ovala zovala.

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani wotchuka wotchuka wa ku Italy, anabadwa mu 1934, ndipo anayamba ntchito yake monga wothandizira Cherutti ndi Ungaro.

Mu 1975, iye amatsegula kampaniyi pansi pa dzina lake ndipo amapanga mabulosi amphongo kwa amuna, momwe amasiya chizolowezi chauzuzya mpaka pansi ndikuchotsa mapewa a mapewa. Chilankhulo chake ndicho kukongola ndi kuphweka. Mumakolo a akazi amagwiritsa ntchito njira zoperekedwa kuchokera ku mafashoni a amuna, amapanga suti yapachifuwa yoyamba yomwe imakhala chizindikiro cha Armani House. Masiku ano Armani akupitiriza kuyendetsa nyumba yake, makasitomala ake ndi nyenyezi ochokera konsekonse padziko lapansi. Chizindikiro "Armani" chimapanga mizere 5 ya zovala, iliyonse yomwe imaphatikizapo filosofi ya kampaniyo.

Givenchy

Hubert de Givenchy ndi wolemekezeka kwambiri m'banja la opanga mafashoni. Amayamba kukhala ndi chidwi ndi mafashoni ali aang'ono, osangalatsidwa ndi magulu a mafashoni a nthawi imeneyo. Amaphunzira ndi anzake, komanso amaliza sukulu yamaphunziro, ndipo mu 1952 amatsegula Fashion Fashion ku Paris, kukhala wojambula kwambiri pa nthawi yake.

Mtundu wake ndi mitundu yambiri yokongola komanso zojambula pamodzi ndi silhouettes yosavuta komanso yoyeretsedwa. Chifukwa cha khama la Zhivanshi, chovala chokhala ndi Bettlin champhepete choyera chinalowa mwaluso wa mkazi wa ku France. Anali wojambula kwambiri wa Audrey Hepburn, wopanga chithunzi chodziwika ndi chodziwika bwino. Kwa iye, mbuyeyo amabwera ndi shati ya diresi ndi zovala zambiri zosavuta komanso zokongola zomwe zakhala zikuimira nthawi.

Pakati pa makasitomala ake pali nyenyezi zambiri zapadziko lapansi ndi olemekezeka, omwe amakopeka ndi chithumwa ndi zovuta za zovala za ku Zhivanshi. Mu 1993, Audrey asanakhalepo, Zhaivanshi adazindikira kuti dziko lapansi linataya chikhalidwe cha ukazi ndipo panalibe wina amene adalenga kukongola. Iye amagulitsa nyumba ya mafashoni ndipo amaiwala kwamuyaya.

Mafilimu ku Russia: Vyacheslav Zaitsev

Odzikongoletsera zovala amadziŵa kuti Russia ili ndi chithumwa chosiyana, ndipo idali ndi Vyacheslav Zaitsev. Wojambulayo anabadwa mu 1938. Kuyambira ali mwana ankakonda kujambula, adadziŵa ntchito yokonza nsalu ndipo kuyambira 1962 adatsogolera gulu loyesera ku Soviet House of Models pa Kuznetsky Most.

Mu 1979 anayamba kugwira ntchito mu studio yake, yomwe inadzakhala Fashion House dzina lake. Mtundu wa Zaitsev ndiwopambana kwambiri. Nthawi zambiri amagwiritsa ntchito miyambo ya zovala zachi Russia, kumadzulo kwake amatchedwa Russian Karden. Mumagulu ake mumatha kuona nsalu zolemera, ubweya, zikopa, amapanga zovala zapamwamba zogulitsira zovala komanso zovala zabwino tsiku ndi tsiku. Zaitsev, mu Soviet times, anavala onse olemekezeka a USSR, lero makasitomala ake ndi a Russia.

Valentin Yudashkin

Ngati mukulemba mndandanda wa "Okonza zovala za ku Russia", ndiye kuti mzere woyambawo udzakhala dzina la Valentin Yudashkin. Iye ali mbali ya Paris High Fashion Syndicate. Nyumba Yake ya Mafashoni imayenda bwino ku Moscow, komanso ku France. Mtundu wa Yudashkin ndi wamtengo wapatali komanso wamtengo wapatali. Msonkhano wake woyamba unayambira mu 1987, mwamsanga anapeza mbiri ya padziko lonse. Yudashkin nthawi zonse amalemba nkhani ya ku Russia pamisonkhano yake. Wokonzayo amakonda kwambiri zokongoletsera: zokongoletsera, zitsulo zamkati, sequins, appliqués - zonsezi zimapangitsa zovala zake kukhala zosavuta komanso zachilendo. Nyumba ya Yudashkin ndi malo omwe nyenyezi za Russian showbiz zimavala.

Igor Chapurin

Zosonkhanitsa zovala za ojambula otchuka zidakhala zolimbikitsa kukulingalira kwa malingaliro opanga aang'ono a Igor Chapurin. Ntchito yake inayamba, adagwira nawo mpikisano wopanga mafashoni, momwe adagonjetsa ndipo adalandira nthawi yomweyo. Mu 1993 iye adalemba cholemba choyamba cha mlembi, ndipo mu 1999 adalandira "Golden Mannequin" pamsonkhano wake watsopano. Mtundu wa Chapurin ndizovala zamaganizo, amapanga zovala kuti aganizire amayi apakati. Mipukutu ya Chapurin imasiyanitsa zovuta zowonongeka komanso zabwino, mbuyeyo amapereka chidwi kwambiri ndi mfundo ndi zokongoletsera. Pakati pa ogula a Chapurin's Fashion House ndi anthu otchuka kwambiri, okondedwa a ku Russia amakonda kukonda zovala zake.

Mtsikana wachinyamata

Olemba mafashoni otchuka akupitiriza kugwira ntchito, makampani akukula, kukopa achinyamata ambiri. Padziko lonse lapansi, abambo a mafashoni ali ndi achinyamata komanso achinyamata omwe amabweretsa malingaliro atsopano ku zovala za dziko. Odziwika kwambiri ovala zovala - Stella McCartney, alongo Olsen, Eilish Macintosh, Uliana Sergienko, Jaimee McKenna, Russell Sage. Lero akulenga tsogolo, akuyesera kugunda dziko lapansi ndi njira zatsopano ndikusinthira malingaliro a kukongola.