Autoblock ndi chiyani? Monga kulukana akundigwira wagawo: chiwembu

Autoblock ali osiyanasiyana ndi lonse ofunsira: izo kukwera (monga alendo ndi mafakitale), ndi kukwera miyala ndi caving, ndi ntchito yopulumutsa. Mwachidule, kulikonse koyenera kupereka Kuphunzira odalirika ngati kulephera mwadzidzidzi, mfundo amafuna kulumikiza.

Autoblock Pali mitundu ingapo, omwe amafuna osiyana ndi mokwanira migodi kuluka luso mwambo zochitika mwadzidzidzi kuti mukonze zinthu. Pambuyo zingwe misonkhano ndi yofunika kwambiri kulukana molondola, pa zimenezi, popanda kukokomeza, kudzadalira moyo munthu.

malamulo lofunika

Autoblock ali zingapo zochititsa chosiyana kuti ndithu n'komwe ndi kukumbukira:

• Iwo osavomerezeka pa zingwe, mawaya popanda kumanga ndi Repshnur ndi malamba zopangidwa moto wambiri, makulidwe ndi Dyneema. Tikapanda kutero kungakhale koopsa moyo!
• Pakumva kuzungulira mfundo akhoza kupewa kuuza mfundo zoonjezera.
• Ndi bwino kugwiritsa ntchito chingwe ndi mphamvu pa kucha 9,8 kN kuti 7 mm m'mimba mwake ndipo 7 kN kwa awiri a 6 mm.
• Iwo ankanena kuti kulukana akundigwira msonkhano akhoza kukhala kulikonse pa hule. Komabe, okwera yake wawauza kuti akonzekeretse m'munsimu.
• Autoblock kuti akhoza opezeka pansi pa katundu, zikhoza kugwiritsidwa ntchito osati pa kuchira, koma nthawi wobadwira kuchokera kumwamba ndi.
• njira yabwino kumvetsa unit ntchito mukagwiritsa ntchito chingwe, yodziwika ndi awiri kawiri.
• Iwo ali osavomerezeka ntchito mtundu uliwonse wa akundigwira msonkhano icing zingwe, popeza ngakhale mu nkhani zochitika za cholimba chidzakhala slippage pa zingwe zopota thandizo.
• Chuma chofunika kwambiri pachikhalidwe aliyense kumvetsa - mphamvu yake yomweyo achedwetsa likhoza kulephera katundu, kukhala ndi munthu kapena katundu.

Prusik mfundo

Aliyense amene ali ndi chidwi mmene kuti amvetse wagawo mu malo oyamba nthawi akulimbikitsidwa kuchita mtundu uwu. Prusik chikutchedwa mlengi wake - Karl Prusik, amene anatulukira mu 1931. Mfundo zingwe wochepetsa mavuto awiri a mamilimita 6 7 padziko waukulu chingwe kapena chingwe awiri kuchokera mamilimita 9 mpaka 14. Prusik amasuntha lenilenilo monga kayendedwe pansi kapena mmwamba munthu, choncho kulephera yomweyo omangika, motero Kuphunzira odalirika.

Pakuti nthawi zina Prusik analamulira wamkulu pakati okwera, koma pa nthawi pakhala Mabaibulo ambiri a onse iye ndi zigawo zikuluzikulu zowalamulira ambiri. Komabe, mpaka tsopano amaona "zofunika" ndi kumanga phunzirolo.

Prusik mating ndondomeko ili:

• chingwe watengedwera, Pre-knotted kuzungulira;
• chingwe ndi chilonda katatu padziko pachimake chingwe moti mkati kuzungulira;
• kuonetsetsa chirichonse chiri wangwiro kuzungulira sikukudziwika overlapped ndi mzake ndi kunama mosabisa, muyenera kumangitsa mfundo.

French Prusik

Iye Marshara mfundo. Ndi bwino ntchito, ngati anadziwiratu kuti katundu idzachitike yekha mu njira imodzi makamaka. Momasuka msonkhano motere:

• chingwe Choyamba akutengedwa, umene bungwe kuzungulira.
• Izo ndiye anakulunga padziko pachimake chingwe.
• Ndi katatu chingwe kumulowetsa padziko chingwe chachikulu. M'pofunika mosamalitsa kuonetsetsa kuti aliyense zolowa wotsatira anapita pafupi ndi yosalala poyerekeza ndi kukhota m'mbuyomu.
• Gawo la chingwe chimene chinatsalira free, ndi anadutsa kuzungulira ndipo omangika mu dera kumene katunduyo adzaikidwe yimitsidwa.

mfundo izi zikufanana crawling otchedwa, kotero kutenga mosamalitsa osavomerezeka chifukwa iye. N'zotheka zosiyanasiyana chiwerengero cha tembenuzani pachimake chingwe mogwirizana. Monga momwe zilili ndi ochiritsira Kumvetsa wagawo waukulu chingwe ayenera kukhala awiri wamkulu kuposa makulidwe Repshnur. mfundo iyi: bwinobwino chingwe mzake awiri, dzuwa motero chitetezo cha French Prusik pansipa.

mfundo Bachman

Ambiri okwera novice chidwi akundigwira msonkhano. Kodi kuluka izo, anthu ambiri sadziwa. Nthawi zambiri analimbikitsa chitukuko otchedwa Bachman mfundo. Iye amavala dzina la anayambitsa - Franz Bachmann. Ngati inshuwalansi yekha mfundo imeneyi ntchito infrequently.

Zomangira izo, kuchita zinthu zotsatirazi:

• kupanga gawo yaitali kwambiri mfuti ku chingwe chachikulu;
• chingwe Tambasula kudzera carabiner ndi, pindani mu theka kupanga ankasinthana ochepa (kawirikawiri awiri kapena atatu), primatyvaya carabiner ndi chingwe mzake;
• Bachmann mfundo amayamba mwamsanga pamene katundu atachotsedwa iye, koma iye anachedwa osati yomweyo, koma chifukwa katundu akhoza kuzembera pang'ono.

Pali komanso mitundu ya inshuwalansi imeneyi. Mwachitsanzo, gawo-Bachmann mfundo. Ndi kuzungulira wake kokha woyamba awiri kapena atatu chimakwirira chingwe pamwamba, ndi pamenepo pokha (komanso 2-3 akutembenukira) chingwe ndi carabiner Ufumuyo.

Psevdobahman - akundigwira msonkhano chithunzi chiri motere: chingwe woyamba zikuphatikizapo chingwe chachikulu kuti akudyetsedwa mwa kuzungulira pamenepo carabiner, monga momwe zilili ndi Agiriki Bachman mfundo. Chotero msonkhano akhoza bungwe "pa ntchentche", popanda unhooking katundu lokha. Zofunika! Psevdobahman amapereka zizimva ake katundu chokhazikika pa chingwe taut kapena chingwe. Ngati iwo sag - mfundo imeneyi lidzasweka.

Pomaliza, ophunzira Ural Polytech psevdobahmana akufuna chimake imene mfundo akuyamba njanji yomweyo, monga momwe zilili ndi psevdobahmanom ochiritsira kenako kuzungulira wochititsa ali yomatidwa carabiner lapansi. Mfundo ndi dzina - UPI (dzina la sukulu), ngakhale kudziwika kwa mwini wake - alendo A. Yu Yagovkin..

Mfundo awiri Kumvetsa

Monga momwe zilili ndi mitundu ina ya inshuwalansi, pamaso kumvetsa awiri kulukana wagawo, muyenera kuonetsetsa kuti zingwe chachikulu ndi wothandiza zosiyanasiyana awiri. Kuti, chingwe ayenera n'kakang'ono amodzi chingwe - optimally mu theka.

Pali yachiwiriyo kuti inu mukhoza kumangiriza wachiphamaso mfundo Kumvetsa. Woyamba amaganiza kuti waukulu chingwe chipongwe anakonza awiri khamu zowalamulira pa mtunda Chrixitu. Choncho, climber otsimikiza kuti ngati pazifukwa zina amalephera kumvetsa mfundo imodzi - ya ntchito yachiwiri.

Malinga ndi chimake wina, zingwe zopota awiri m'chiuno padziko maziko a chingwe. Kotero, zikhoza kutheka kwa bungwe ngati awiri ndi patatu symmetrical Kumvetsa msonkhano.

Kumvetsa kumalekezero mfundo

The mfundo akundigwira kumalekezero amamangidwa pa chiwembu mofanana chakale, koma yamazinga kuzungulira popangidwa ndi chingwe apangidwe mu theka, ndipo mapeto chimodzi chokha.

mfundo Poluskhvatyvayuschy

Chotero msonkhano ali ngati theka Kumvetsa. asipirini woyamba chilonda padziko maziko a chingwe nayenso chimodzi, ndiyeno analiika pafupi koyilo wina (ayenera penyani mwatcheru kupewa overlaps), ndipo mapeto ufulu wa chingwe ndi yamazinga mu kuzungulira. Limeneli liyenera adzigwiritsidwa ntchito mu mapiri, zokopa alendo ndi zina zotero. D. Izo ntchito mwapadera mu kunyumba.

Direct klemheist mfundo

Kukhazikitsa mwachindunji akundigwira Austria mfundo analimbikitsa zikuluzikulu zozungulira chingwe awiri kuchokera 9 kwa 15 mamilimita ndi wothandiza chingwe awiri a 6 7 mm. Kwakukulu kusiyana awiri ndi, mphamvu za Kumvetsa msonkhano.

Wapawiri chingwe momuzungulira nthawi 4-6 amodzi chingwe, kenako mapeto ufulu kwake yamazinga mu kuzungulira malangizo kuchokera pansi pamwamba lokha. Chotero msonkhano amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu yosiyanasiyana kuwoloka.

N'zosiyana klemheist mfundo

Pamene kokha wapangidwa za mfundo 2-3 awiri koyilo chingwe mozungulira choimirira atathana chingwe m'njira kunsi. N'zosiyana Austria wagawo wapeza ntchito kwake ambiri pa gululi umodzi, kuphatikizapo monga lanyard a.

Makinawa keylock

Chinthu chapadera cha Makinawa keylock ndi malekezero awiri a chingwe si yamazinga kudzera mu kuzungulira ndi carabiner kutseka. Munthu akhoza kungowauzira detach iwo, ndipo mfundo yomweyo anakumasulani ndi mphamvu ya chingwe zotanuka.

Makinawa keylock Ndi bwino ntchito inshuwalansi pa kupsyolela makolo kapena chitunda. Iye ndi zina zambiri yodalirika ndiponso otetezeka kuposa Prusik chomwecho. Komabe, mfundo yofunika ndi kuti autolock kudalirika amadalira kwambiri nkhani imene chopangidwa monga Repshnur ndi chingwe chachikulu. zipangizo makamaka zofewa.

zolakwa Common

Oyamba kungophunzira kuti autoblock kulukana zambiri kulola zotsatirazi zolakwa wamba:

• Pa ntchito, kumvetsa msonkhano woyamba akhoza kukakumana mfundo yokha kanjedza. Izi n'kogwiritsa chakuti ngati dzanja mwadzidzidzi reflexively kuotcha, chifukwa mu mfundo sakusonyeza, ndipo patsogolo katundu ali ankatembenukira mwachindunji dzanja. Kumene, kupewa dontho chifukwa cha khama la kanjedza yekha chosatheka, koma chifukwa cha cholakwa ndi zinadzala ndi ngozi. Kupeŵa, simuyenera kulimbikitsa mfundo yokha dzanja ndi kukoka chingwe akuthandiza.
• Ngakhale kuti nkhani unit Kumvetsa mosavuta ndi sukuluyi kukwera onse kwapatsidwa nthawi yambiri, oyamba koma mobwerezabwereza ndi kulola zotsatirazi zolakwa zazikulu: zingwe osakwanira chiwerengero cha tembenuzani maziko a chingwe, kapena, pa mwake - nambala kwambiri. Mbali yoyamba, zikuoneka kuti zisinthe chimodzi basi sangathe kusunga katundu wothawa. A kuvala yosavuta chingachokere mu kugwa kusalankhula. Lachiwiri - mfundo ndi zokhoma pa kuyenda kwa loko zonse.
• Kugwiritsa ntchito ndime yomweyo kwa nthawi yaitali. Ngakhale kwambiri cholimba Repshnur adzatero kenako nkhondoyo, makamaka zinthu yokumba kwambiri. Ziyenera kukhala mosamala kwambiri kuyendera chingwe kuwonongeka musanadye ntchito.
• Nthawi zambiri amachita ngati inshuwalansi Kumvetsa msonkhano. Kodi kuluka kutumikira ngati wodalirika? Tikumbukenso kuti kutalika mapeto ufulu anamasulidwa Repshnur sayenera upambana kutalika kwa dzanja lake. Apo ayi, pa nthawi yofunika simungakhoze basi kulalikira kwa chingwe chachikulu.
• Pa kayendedwe ka mfundo kuti anakankhira dzanja, koposa kusuntha dzanja lake (onani Para. Choyamba), kapena kukoka malekezero lotayirira chingwe. Kulephera mphindi chachiwiri kungachititse kuti mapangidwe overlaps, amene kwambiri kufooketsa nsinga msonkhano.
• Pomaliza, tiyenera bwino kutsatira kuchokera pamwamba ulamuliro anatchula: kakakulu chingwe iyenera kukhala pa imodzi ndi theka katatu kuposa makulidwe chingwe. Asamve osiyanitsidwa paubwenzi, ndipo ngakhale awiri omwewo a chingwe sadzakhala zimathandiza kuti mphamvu ya Anatipatsa mfundo.